DEI = Definitely Earned It
The End of DEI and the Future of Inclusion in Beauty, K18 to launch in Sally, Fenty taps GloRilla as the first-ever exclusive ambassador, & 'Republican' makeup.
Roses are red, violets are blue, I got the latest beauty news just for you! Happy Valentine’s Day and welcome to this week’s beauty aisle restock. 🤭
This newsletter will be a bit different as I will be reflecting on the recent attacks on Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) and share my thoughts on what the current administration's push to eliminate these programs could mean for the beauty industry.
In a pinch? Feel free to scroll down to read the latest in beauty news + launches.
It’s only February, and so far, Donald Trump has signed an executive order dismantling DEI (Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion) programs across federal agencies, calling them “radical” and “wasteful.” This order shut down DEI offices, placed employees on leave, erased related guidance from websites, and even revoked a 1965 executive order that prohibited employment discrimination by federal contractors. Major corporations like Meta, Target (!!!), Walmart, Google, and Amazon have scaled back their own DEI efforts in response to mounting political ‘pressure.’ The executive order also directs federal agencies to identify and investigate organizations deemed discriminatory, pressuring even more corporations to remove DEI initiatives. Though there have not been reports of beauty corporations or brands reversing DEI efforts, I would not be surprised to see verbiage around DEI commitments quickly make its way off brand pages.
DEI programs have been instrumental in driving innovation and inclusion in beauty. From increasing boardroom representation to expanding product lines, the industry has made strides over the last few years, especially in response to the movement following the killing of George Floyd in 2020, which kick-started DEI initiatives for many corporations.
First things first: It’s impossible to ignore the significant contributions that Black consumers have made to shaping the beauty industry. In recent years, there’s been a surge in Black beauty spending, with Black consumers now making up 12.7% of total U.S. beauty dollars, a growth of $840M from just last year. They’re also driving where and how beauty is bought. With a 9% increase in beauty spending, Black consumers are outpacing the total U.S. population’s 6.7% increase. Fragrance and hair care, including styling products and treatments, are leading the charge, and online beauty spending has become a dominant force.
As the beauty industry continues to evolve with Black consumers leading the charge, the dismantling of DEI programs poses a real risk of reversing the progress made in inclusivity, both behind the scenes and on the shelves.
We may see low-performing SKUs, which tend to be shades for really light or dark complexions, start disappearing from shelves. Campaigns will start to feature less diversity. Collaborations with POC influencers might be less prioritized in favor of more ‘mainstream’ partnerships (re: Alix Earls of the world), and product development could lose its focus on inclusivity, with fewer brands introducing new products designed specifically for underrepresented skin tones or hair types, thus limiting options for Black and other minority consumers.
Think about how diverse voices, like Golloria, have driven innovations for inclusive shade ranges. These are initiatives that only happen when companies prioritize representation. If beauty brands fail to support and retain diverse talent, they risk relying on a less diverse pool of voices at the decision-making level with no accountability to ensure the needs of all consumers are met.
Honestly, we’ll start to see launches that look a lot like this—
@golloriabeen in the game since 1997.. and have yet to hit the LAB. do better.
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And consumer attitudes start to look more and more like this:
If we want to ensure that beauty remains accessible, innovative, and representative of all, it’s crucial for both brands and consumers to hold the industry accountable. This responsibility isn’t just for people of color; it’s a collective effort. The question then becomes not just how brands will respond, but how they will hold themselves accountable to the very consumers who have shaped their success. Now, more than ever, the beauty industry must commit to real, lasting change because without it, the progress we’ve made could quickly unravel.
📰 Beauty News In Brief
2/8-2/14
According to Circana, U.S. prestige beauty industry sales rose 7% year-over-year, reaching $33.9 billion in 2024. Fragrance led U.S. beauty sales in 2024, making up 28% of overall beauty sales and becoming the second-largest prestige category, while makeup, skin care, and hair care also saw notable growth, with scalp care and treatments leading the charge.
Get ‘em, glo! Rihanna taps GloRilla as the first-ever exclusive ambassador for her Fenty empire, starring in the ‘Glo Up Close’ campaign and will be the face of Fenty Beauty, Fenty Skin, Fenty Hair, and Savage X Fenty’s Spring 2025 collection.
Mugler Fragrances has tapped Chinese pop idol Cai Xukun as its new global ambassador, unveiling a campaign for the Angel Fantasm Eau de Parfum Sensuelle, which features Cai in a Mugler ensemble designed by creative director Casey Cadwallader.
Moroccanoil is expanding into fragrance with the launch of L’Originale, an eau de parfum inspired by its signature scent, featuring vibrant citrus, violet, and floral notes, with a campaign led by actress Adria Arjona.
Neutrogena has tapped Nicola Coughlan as its latest ambassador for the UK and Ireland, following Tate McRae's appointment as global ambassador, with Coughlan featuring in a content series promoting products from the Hydro Boost and Retinol lines.
Gucci Beauty has expanded its partnership with Chinese actor Zhang Linghe, who will now serve as the brand's fragrance ambassador, debuting in campaigns for Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia Eau de Parfum.
Give Back Beauty has acquired the license for Britney Spears' fragrance brand, planning to innovate and expand the line globally, with a new fragrance debuting in 2026. But why?
Sally Beauty’s Beauty Systems Group announces a new distribution partnership with K18, launching in-store and online across the US and Canada on April 1.
Elemis has signed a three-year partnership with the Aston Martin Aramco F1 Team, becoming its first official skin care partner, with plans for product collaborations, brand visibility on F1 cars, and VIP activations starting at the Australian Grand Prix.
Laura Mercier debuts an Apple Vision Pro shopping app, created with Obsess, featuring interactive 3D unboxing, shoppable videos, and virtual storefronts inspired by Paris and New York.
e.l.f. did it first though!
Your fav Target brand Kristin Ess Hair launched its first-ever Hair Artistry Team, uniting seven industry-leading stylists with celebrity and editorial expertise to further the brand’s commitment to innovation, education, and modern hairstyling.
Speaking of Target, they’re launching over 2,000 new beauty products, including nearly 50 new brands, with prices starting at $1.29, offering a range of science-backed skin care, hair care, cosmetics, and fragrances, as well as emerging brands by diverse founders. huh.
Shiseido reports a 73% drop in annual profit, citing weaker consumer spending in China and a prolonged downturn in the country’s beauty market, forecasting continued sales challenges in 2025.
Coty's Q2 revenue declined 3% to $1.66 billion, impacted by weak demand in Asia, FX challenges, and slower sales in mass beauty, though fragrance performance remains strong.
Have you guys been seeing ‘Republican Makeup’ videos on your TikTok FYP?? If you’re unfamiliar go follow Suzanne Lambert, the ‘Regina George liberal’, or check out Diet Prada’s latest IG Post for a recap:
🛍️ Just In
launches you can’t miss (or can you?)
Fenty Hair is teasing their new Water Boi Repartative Leave In Conditioner Spray launching at Sephora on February 20th.
💄 Indeed Labs debuts a Gen Z and Gen Alpha skincare line featuring a two-in-one cleanser, milky toner, hydrating serum, and targeted microdarts—formulated with gentle, non-stripping ingredients to support skin health and barrier function. They even tapped 7?8? year old TikTok star Scarlett for their campaign. I cannot believe we live in an era where prepubescent children with round faces are doing 3-4 step skincare routines.
💄 Sulwhasoo celebrates Valentine’s Day with a limited-edition Lip Color and Glowing Lip Balm, infused with ginseng seed oil and nourishing butters to hydrate, smooth lip lines, and deliver a soft, buildable tint.
Kosas just dropped a full-coverage dark circle corrector, brightening, and visibly depuffing serum in one in five shades. Questionable, but let me know if you’ve tried it.
Glossier launched a new shade of their Balm Dotcom Lip Balm & Skin Salve in Black Cherry.
“it’s a flush, not a blush” Glow Recipe launched two shades in their new Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dewy Flush - Brightening Serum Blush
Tower 28 is launching the first-ever “setting blush” in six shades. Looking forward to the swatch tests on TikTok.
amika launched a new mask—the Midnight Mender Overnight Strength Repair Hair Treatment Mask is an overnight leave-in formula that conditions and smooths strands to reduce breakage and repair signs of damage.
Westman Atelier is dropping Sun Tone Hydrating Matte Bronzing Drops tomorrow!
Thank you so much for reading! If you enjoyed this week’s recap, consider restacking or letting me know your thoughts in the comments.
Thank you for this, especially the bit about how we're going to see the launches you're describing. I'm working on a piece going one step further -- are we going to see the return of skin whitening products for folks of color?